How to Choose Wedding Suit for Groom?

Photo: Allan Zepeda 
Photo: Guy Aroch & Anna Palma
Photo: Sarah Falugo

Nowadays, there are a lot of clients at PRINCIPLE M looking for a wedding suit instead of a more traditional tuxedo. Today we will recommend you some fabrics and colour options for a formal suit that you can wear on your big day, as well as wear it to work or any occasion.

What is the difference between a Tuxedo and a Suit?

The British people call it Dinner Jacket, but in the U.S., it’s called Tuxedo (Tux). Traditionally, tuxedos use Barathea, which is a wool fabric. The weight is also a bit heavier, to construct a firmer structure. Today tuxedos can be made from a variety of fabrics, such as silk, satin and velvet.

Tuxedo lapels are mostly silk/satin, while suit lapels are made of the same fabric as the rest of the suit.

 Black Semi-bespoke Tuxedo,
Using Hardy Minnis 100% Pure New Wool 
Made by PRINCIPLE M in 2020 for William 
Detail for Tuxedo Pocket

Tuxedo’s buttons are typically satin/silk-covered. 

You may also see a satin/silk finish on the tuxedo pockets.

Usually, tuxedos come with no vents.

/Get a Three-piece

For wedding suits, we recommend making a “three-piece suit,” meaning the suit includes a vest/waistcoat.

 Dark Navy Semi-Bespoke Dugdale 3-piece Suit
Made by PRINCIPLE M in 2020 for Chris

A waistcoat is a more formal representation for a gentleman’s style. Since a wedding is a big occasion, the groom will be expected to dress formal and presentable.

Bespoke Caccioppoli Wool Linen Suit
Made by Jamen from PRINCIPLE M

Besides, no matter Chinese traditional weddings or western weddings, there is one thing the newly-weds can’t avoid – greeting and drinking with the guests. So, if you decide to take off the jacket, wearing a waistcoat will be easier to move around for you, but still, look formally dressed.

A waistcoat will help cover your belly, if you have one. But please note: you can’t wear your leather belt when you wear a waistcoat; wear braces or use an adjustable belt instead.

Leonardo DiCaprio in Titanic (1997)

/Some Popular Fabric Options

For the summer season, the first and foremost requirement for suits for men is lightweight and comfortable. Most of the weddings last for a whole day, or longer, so it is crucial to select a fabric that is light and breathable. 

Photo: Allan Zepeda 

The Standeven British Mohair collection is a very popular choice at PRINCIPLE M. Established in 1885, Standeven is a prestigious British fabric mill whose fabric is milled at their own factory at Stanley Mills in West Yorkshire. The cloth is washed and pressed using only the purest water available straight from the Pennine Hills. 

Mohair is durable, crisp, and resilient, with just the slightest amount of natural sheen. It’s perfect for weddings and formal occasions, elegant and very picture-ready.

In this fabric selection, all of the fabrics that range from 250g – 285g is made of at least 60% of Kid Mohair. This weight range is perfect for summer weddings. It’s light, breathable, and a comfortable choice for both indoor and outdoor weddings.

Standeven British Mohair

If you want something a bit more subtle, so that you can wear to work, we recommend Harrisons’ Frontier, also a selection favoured by a lot of PM customers. Harrisons is a brand from Edinburgh, Scotland, first opened in 1863, they work with brands and tailored shops all over the world. 

The fabrics from Frontier collection are 100% Wool, weight 300g, suits for all seasons, and easy to wear to work. 

/Popular Colour Options

If your suit doesn’t have to match with the colour themes of your wedding, or your wedding doesn’t have a colour theme, then go with a darker grey – it’s the safest choice and also more formal.

Humphrey Bogart & Lauren Becall (1945)



If you want to choose something you can wear for your wedding and other occasions, go with Navy.

Source: Vogue

If it’s an outdoor wedding, for example, on a beach or at a church, you can choose a lighter, brighter colour, such as white, off-white, light blue in a linen-blend fabric, so that you can also wear it casually on weekends.     

/ The Perfect Choice

Some of our clients insist on making tuxedos for their wedding, which is fine. Or perhaps a fancy fabric for their suit. I mean, if the brides can spend a large amount of money on a perfect wedding dress, why can’t the groom make a well-tailored, perfect suit at a fraction of the dress price?

The wedding scene in The Godfather (1972)

I asked Justin this question the other day: What do you think is the perfect wedding suit for men?

Justin answered: “if there’s a customer coming over for a wedding suit, and he wants something exquisite, elegant, presentable, once-in-a-lifetime kind of suit, I’d recommend him this fabric:

Loro Piana 100% Shantung Silk Mare

This fabric is 100% raw shantung silk, purest white like clouds in the sky, very soft and elegant. It’s perfect for any wedding location–be it a beach, a church or a fancy hotel. You can use it to make a tuxedo with shawl collar, styled it up with a black bow-tie. For trousers, go with black or navy. Pure elegance.”

All of the fabrics above are available at Principle M and these are just the beginning of our style recommendations. Each wedding is different and each individual may have a different design in mind that would best fit their wedding. So, it’s always best to come in and have a conversation with us in person to begin the designing and tailoring of your perfect suit. Feel free to message us as well. We are here to help out with your clothing and styling needs. 

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PRINCIPLE M

Premium Tailored Clothing & Accessories | Beijing